The People of Lithuania

Returning to America, I had a sense of loss.

Over the past three months and ten days I had a marvelous opportunity to meet and fellowship with so many astounding, beautiful, determined and resilient people in Lithuania.

What struck me most is their natural beauty, which I believe is related to their close ties with nature and the wonderfully healthy land they live on. In the Photo to the left my friend and interpreter had a deep desire to visit the Village of her birth, States, about 50 Km east of Kretinga near the popular Baltic seaside resort of Palanga. She had not been there since childhood some 50 years ago. Yet she had this strong desire to see and feel the land on which she was born, and to pick flowers and eat natural berries in the forest of her youth.

The country has suffered many conquests , and lived through the brutality of the German occupation, and then the pedantic and agonizing pain of fifty years under the Kremlin.

Through it all there emerged a well educated (98% literate) and well bred population of joyful people. I lived with these folks in their homes in several of the large cities: Vilnius, Kaunas, Siauliai, Palanga, Klaipeda, and Druskinikai. One memory of Klapedia which stands out with me was sitting in the kitchen of the home of the elder sister of my friend. We chatted though I speak Lithuanian only a little. I wanted to know if she could tell me what it was like during the WWII years. This dear lady was very reluctant to speak. I believe that fifty years of strict imtimidation by the Soviets have served to give those people who lived it a great reluctance, and a natural fear of speaking out and expressing an opinion about their intolerable situation. Further, I believe it is like a former prison inmate once told me when I asked about his experience 'doing time', "Look, I did it, and it is done. The last thing I want to do is to relive it with you." At any rate, I understood why Theresa, my friends sister, did not want to share her memories with me. She did share many photos and the small blue note books of music and native songs. She had written down all of the words and music in a neat, crisp hand. Many of these songs were not in print during the past 50 years. Out of great love of her people and to hold on to her Lithuanian tradition and culture, Theresa had preserved her heritage. I was in tears as I listened Theresa and her little sister sing out in wonderful harmony many of thse great and moving Lithuanian tunes. It is this inner determination which kept alive the Lithuanian people in an oppressed and occupied land.

I sat in her kitchen looking out on a major road, H.Manto Gatve [renamed Tito Gatve] along the stretch in front of the busy prot entrance road of Danes Gatve. leading to the Klapedia piers just beyond her home on Vytauto Gatve. She has lived here a long time, and she did share with me that the times of German occupation 1941-44 were very busy times for the port. The main entrance to the port is about a 10 minute walk from her home;just down this street and to the right is Tito Gatve leading to the main entrance.

Also, the soviets made great use of the same port when they forced out the Germans near the close of WWII. I could picture in my mind the German trucks and military appartus moving past her home marching toward those ships awaiting them at the pier, just a short walk from her home. Theresa's husband who died in the 1960's worked his whole life at this port. I have read so much about the war, and here I was right in the place where it had taken place. I walked all over the down town and along the piers at the waterfront one somber Sunday morning, and just took in the history of the place, and its people. I wondered what they had gone through, and how they managed to survive it all, and still come out as kind and generous and beautiful people.

It was hard to grasp; a great irony and justaposition was before me. Here I was sitting in a warm loving home, and thinking of those cold, malicious, fearful olive drab, green tanks and war machines rumbling past this peaceful home; marching toward the destruction of people who are so kind and good.

Every home I visited was filled with people always there to give you food and drink, and a warm hug. Where ever we went, we brought a bottle of Congac for our host, which is a tradition amoung Lithuanians. We, in turn, were greeted at the door with smiles and hugs and kisses, and ushered to a bountiful table of food. Every Village home had a wonderful and productive garden, and folks were proud to show you what they were growing and share the fresh produce with me. The best part was the loving people to share all of this with me.

This same experience was true in every city and in every home I visited. It was a thrill for me, and it caused me to become very emotionally attached to these folks.

One very important aspect of the Lithuanian culture and Psyche is their love for the land and natural beauty. Let me tell you about the food too, because it is tied to their nature. Breakfast is usually black bread, agurkas [we call them cucumbers in the US], tomatos [pomadoros], cheese[sauras] a wide variety of sausage meats, and honey [medus] and of course cava[coffee] very strong, and not brewed, but seeped in boiling water. Most importantly is that all of these items are fresh. Lunch may be Sepalines [ a ground potato filled with cheese or meat, and smothered with trasty gravy. This is often served with cold or hot Borscht. Dinner may be fish or foul. Most always lunch and dinner are served wih lots of fresh pickels, tomatos, and sometimes sliced meats that I never was really sure what animal they came from, but they were all good and all very healthy.

In Kaunas we lived on V.Kreves and the IKI [large chain supermarket] was a short walk from our home. In front of IKI was a large outdoor market that was always well stocked with fresh foods. Daily we took a walk at around 6AM. Played a little tennis and basketball at Danavos Parkas, and then went to the market. We rarely went into IKI. Most of our food was purchased in the open market stalls. Everything there was fresh daily. One day I went, and an elderly gentleman had backed his car in. His trunk was opened, and in it sat two 20 liter milk tins. This gentleman had been up since very eaarly morning milking his cows, and now he was in the market selling his fresh milk. He had some empty plastic bottles in his back seat. I asked him "Kaip tai kainuoja" [how much] he produced two liter and one liter empty bottles. I pointed to the two Liter. For 2.5 Litas I had fresh milk for the week. I loved to bargan with the vendors prices for food every day. Seems strange, but somehow it made it taste fresher, and better.

Lithuanians often spend time in the "Village". I got the impression that many were closely tied to the village of their birth. Again, tied to the land. Once, I went to the home of a very wonderful school administrator [director]. Her condo was in the city of Kaunas across from Oassi, my favorite sports center in the city. Yet almost every weeekend she went to her "village". I was invited to her birthday party which was held in her village home. The home was outstanding. The setting was beaucolic. The house was very large, and well constructed. Structures there must withstand extreams of weather, Winters get as low as -20 C, and summers can be as high as 30C or more. The house was perfectly situated on a pastoral pond in a valley of a deeply wooded birch forest. Everyone was so festive.

In general, Lithuanians love Festivity. During the warmer months every city and town in Lithuania puts on a "Town Celebration". I was fortunate enough to be in Kaunas in June during Kauno Days, and again in July for Jonises Day. If you look on my You Tube Site [http://www.youtube.com/user/willbethar] you will see a short clip called "Dancing in the Park". This was filmed at the Jonises Day Festival. Also, take a look at the wonderful video sent to me by aGBone "LITHUANIA-Journey to the Center of Europe". GBone is a native, and he is rightfully proud of his country. This video says more about Lithuania than I could ever tell of my experiences in this short article.

I will have more to tell later in the Historical piece of the cities I visited. Also, there is much said here in the photos. For now, I urge you to watch the videos, and I hope I have given my readers a sense of the wonderful feelings I experienced in getting to know Lithuania and Lithuanians.

Lastly,I want to impart that the magic of Kaunas and other cities does not lie in the beautiful old city buildings and churches. The magic is in the hearts, souls and eyes of the people who are the direct decendents of the folks who built all of those marvelous places. It is a miracle, and a blessing from God that this culture has survived to give living testimony to the strength, power and grace of a beautiful country, Lithuania populated with very, very beautiful Lithuanian people.

Retired Having Fun

Just a quick message to fellow retirees who are wishing their retirement years were the reality they had dreamed of while working.

My reflections after spending the last three months in the center of Europe:

I never thought it would happen. But I thank God that it did. When I look back on the ups and downs in my life I see that I had been in this same position earlier in life.

I had just graduated college. I got a great job working for the government. I was in a good level [GS-14] position. I had 10 years of service completed, and I could retire with 47% of my high 3 years salary at age 55. Suddenly I lost it all.
During the high earning years of my Government service my family and I had done a lot of traveling: Europe; South America; Aruba and the Caribbean Islands. Then after my sudden departure from the Government I sat and worried about what to do. My vision for the wonderful and stress free future was blurred.

Would I every have enough money to travel again? Would I be ale to retire and still have enough years left to enjoy life? My legs, it seemed, had been pulled out from me. I was about to give up.

Then, I think God intervened. Suddenly, my life began to turn around. I started a small business. Next a big company bought me out and picked me up, and I started to rise rapidly up the corporate ladder.

Within a few years, I was back on top, and earning more money than I had ever made with the Government. I had more than doubled my Federal salary. I was saving money, and building a wonderful retirement. My new company had a 401K plan that matched my savings dollar for dollar to the max Tax bracket at the time. I was back traveling, and having the things I wanted in life for me and my family.

Suddenly, I was downsized. I lost the great income I had been enjoying. I went through a very costly divorce. Everything I had earned and worked for was taken by the courts and attorneys. I said to myself. Well here is another valley in my up and down life. My life was looking like a roller coaster.

The big question I had to ask was why? Like all such questions, there really is no answer. Only God knows.

I spoke to friends and relatives.
I met a guy who told me there are thousands like me.
Then he relayed his story. He too had some ups and downs in life. He had made a lot of money over the years. Then, as soon as his company was taken over by a bigger fish, he was a target. He was over 55, making 156K a year, and he was close to retirement. The new company wanted to clean house of guys like him, so sure enough they found a way. Offer him a severance package, and make it so restrictive that he could not ever get it.
They were closing his office which was the only one in the state. He had to find another position at the same or higher pay within the company anywhere within 50 miles of his current office. No such position existed. The severance package also said that if they offered him another job [and it did not have to be in the same or similar position] if he did not take it then he would be released, and the lucrative terms of the original package would be withdrawn.
So they offered him a job handling the Year2000 or Y2K program. He was not familiar with it, and at first he refused. HR told him that if he refused, then he would be out without any severance. He pointed out that at the end of the Y2K project there would no longer be a need for this position. HR told him they would find something else, but could not promise. The offer also had some fine print saying that once he took the new position the original severance package was no longer valid.

I asked what happened. He took the Y2K project. The company told him he had done such a good job they were ending the project 4 months early because they were assured [thanks to his efforts] everything was going to work fine when the clock struck midnight 2000. So ended his career and his severance, and his big salary. He was yet another senior victim of corporate belt tightening.

Like many others, his wife left him; his kids lost interest because he was no longer giving them new cars; trips to Europe, and all the perks that spoiled rich kids enjoy. The man was helpless in the face of his loss. He wound up withdrawing into himself and drinking to forget. Recently, he died, and had only one true friend who stuck with him to the end. God at least gave him that much, and he died in the arms of his Savior- Jesus.

I feel bad that I could not help him out. But now I believe I have a service that will help people like my friend. People who have given so much in life, and feel betrayed and cheated in the "golden years" of life. I want these to really be the "golden years" for all those who have worked so hard to build, teach create, and give their lives to enrich this society. Those people deserve more than a $600.00 monthly Social Security Check, and maybe a little pension money.

Again, let me tell you that I was in the same position. I had it all; lost it all, and got some of it back again: post retirement.

Please join me on my You Tube site at

http://www.youtube.com/user/willbethar

I have prepared a short video that will show you how to put some extra bucks in your pocket, and to supplement your current retirement. You need to treat yourself. You worked hard all your life. Live life life to its fullest. Don't let yourself be fenced in because of your limited retirement income. Join me, and Travel, Reflect and Enjoy!

Tallin, Estonia -Pro Georgia Demonstration

AUG,12,2008 In the center of the old Medieval City of Tallinn the capital of Estonia a large rally was held to show support and union for the Georgia republic which is under attack by the Russians. The main theme I heard echoed is that Perestroika is dead, and the old Soviet hardliners are emerging from the Gorbichev years to flex their muscles. Perhaps the main reason for this union and demonstration is fear and self preservation. After all, countries represented here were once dominated by the Russians. They have reason to be afraid, after seeing the Russians sweep through Georgia in 4 days with little resistance. And they have no one to really rely on. The Baltic states of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia are still on the outskirts of the European Union. Siuliai,Lithuania is the only place where there is currently a large NATO base: a former Soviet strategic air defense base. This base is as big as the USA's Lackland in Texas. It was a real prise for the US and NATO to get this foot hold so close to Russians Western boarder[600Km].

I noted that there is a lot of coverage in the US for the Russia/Georgia conflict. However, I did not see any coverage of last nights rally to arms by these former Soviet satellite countries. Perhaps the west sees this as just posturing , because together they have no real military threat, and all probably with the exception of Lithuania because of NATO have little or no self-defense.




European news casters reported a rally of 500 people. There were considerably more, and they cheered and waved flags from all the Baltic states and other former Soviet states. I even saw a large American flag; someone thinking Bush really cared about their problems. In fact Bush was at the Olympics sitting near the former Russian leader Vladimir Putkin. Bush publicly declared that he expressed strong concerns over the Russians actions in Georgia, and then they both went back to watching the fake Chinese fireworks and the games.


My sense, and the sense of the crowd in Tallinn's Komondadi and Luhike Plots [square] was one of frustration. These countries have been through this many times before. They can claim independence and call themselves an elected republic, but the fact is they are sadly for them, still pawns on the world chess table. It is sad, because these people have human faces not just strategic importance for super powers who play with their lives.

The Russians set out to break the spirit of Georgians by targeting civilian populations. This is the Russian way of saying if you want democracy, elect a guy who will play ball with us, or you will die. In all of the cities I have visited, the Russians marched in and took over in 1917--20 and punished the vanquished by mass deportation to Siberia. They did it again in 1941 an then after pushing out the Germans deportation to Siberia began again in 1944. This was followed by 50 repressive years of tracking, spying and domination by the Russians. Russian was required in schools. The native languages were not taught,and Russian culture was forced on these people. Russians owned everything; got all the best housing, and cars, and the locals were treated like second class citizens.

Most likely the real reason for the invasion has to do with "Oil". Yep the same problem all over the world. Only ow you don't have a few Arab camel drivers who have no army sitting on billions of barrels of oil, you have the Russians who do have an army and an agenda. Ye the Cold War ended, and the Russians tried a new economic system called Perestroika. They let their military fall into a weaker state over the past few years, but they are still strong, and recently they have been exercising. Georgia may have been the Russian punching bag to gt the troops back in shape. While doing so, the Russians are showing the surrounding "Democratic" States that they still need to be on the Russian team. Russia discovered oil in a place they used to dump all dissidents, and they want to pump it to their neighbors; not as a good will gesture, but as a calculated economic threat to the EU. EU has become very strong over the past 10 years since the end of the Cold War. Russians are paranoid and have always been paranoid of anyone near their boarders growing in military or economic strength.

Lets look at a brief history of Tallinn, It has been ruled by the Finns, Russians, Germans and Swedes, and for a few years they had self rule. In the 1oth Century they were and still remain a key port and market for Scandinavia and Russia. What's to stop Russia from taking them back now that they have become a modern booming port town filled with western and Russian ships. It is a nice port, and free if ice more time than any other north Russian port.

So why does Russia want to take back or intimidate Georgia: could it be the oil pipeline route to Ukraine and eastern Europe, and the port of Poti, a major shipper of oil drilling parts and equipment, and the key link to all Caucasus trade? Funny thing is that Georgia's president Mikheil Saakashvil made a deal with the Arabs just after the 2004 completion of the Caspian oil Project . This project sponsored by the Russian Lukoil co. cost 3 billion. to build a pipeline to take oil from the Caspian sea drilling platforms through Azerbaijan to Turkey via Georgia. This upset the Russian plan to beat the Arabs at their own game. Russia has changed a little because of Perestroika. They now realize that in order to dominate, they need something more than a strong military. They need a stronger power, like the US has: MONEY! The Arabs are making so much with their oil, and they have the US and EU pinned to the mat, yet they only have a small army, and a few terrorists. But they have oil. Now the Russians have oil too, and if estimates are correct: more than the Arabs. So with a military force as large as the US, and billions of barrels of oil why should Russia care about world opinion. Let that sissy stuff for the US. The US is seen as a foolish country to people from this part of the world. The US takes over a key oil producing country; spends a billion a week to stay there; they get demoralized by terrorists, and allow the Arabs to bring them to their knees with high oil prices at US pumps. The US is funding its own downfall, and the Arabs, Qutar and the Russians are getting rich.
Russians are enjoying that new wealth too. Towns like Tallinn, Jurmila, Palonga, and Klapeda are all big beach resorts for wealthy Russians. And why not when the Russian currency buys a lot more than a Lithuanian lita, or Estonian Krona or Latvian Let.
Had the Russians been in the same spot as the US. They would have taken Iraq, Iran, Kuwait, and simply stated to the world "to the victor belongs the spoils" They would have then built a pipeline to Moscow, and the world would have yawned, and said" that's how the Russians do it". Which is about the same world opinion we see with the Russian invasion of Georgia.
Several times I have tried to talk with locals about the war years, and people my age who lived through it treat you as if you were a Russian spy trying to pry information out of them. To say the least, they don't want to talk. They want to forget.
The invasion of Georgia is a stark reminder that the Russians are still next door, and they could still easily break in your door at any minute.

RIGA, LATVIA

I welcome you to spend some time with me in a city on the Baltic that has a long and varied history. It is hard to believe that a city that has changed hands and political control dozens of times over its 800+ year history. Prior to the first mention of Riga as a city under the Hanseatic League [Old German-Prussian] the Romans had a small outpost there[600], but did not take too well to the cold.

In the 1500's Riga became a Luthern town ruled by the Polish-Lithuanian state. Lithuania the neighboring Baltic state at one time ruled from the Baltic Sea to the Black sea. However from time to time they had various alliances with the Poles the Finns and the Sweads.
Thus, in 1621 the Sweadish State took control of Riga only to be conquered by Peter the Great of Russia as he began to eat into the Lithuanian empire state by state.
Jump 100 years ahead, and Napolean tries to take Riga from the Russians. Close, but no cigar, the result is mass destruction of the surrounding areas which led to the present day neat street plans created during the rebuilding.

About the 1860's The Nationalistic Riga Latvian Society is formed and the First All-Latvian Song Festival takes place. The week I was there they were celebrating the Hanseatic Festival. So though Riga was still under the Tsar in the 1860's they managed to maintain some central national identity, yet it would continue to be tested for the next 100 years. Riga was one of the most important cities in Russia where Industry and International trade flourished. Mostly because they have a natural seaport. In fact, it is so desirable that even the Dutch, 60 years earlier, had a hold on nearby Jurmala Rigas' port entrance to the Baltic Sea. Jurmala is the beach resort for today's wealthy Russians. Along the beach front there are many very large mansions that reminded me of the plush estates along Ponte Vedra beach in North Florida, or the many international estates that lie along West Palm Beach. In 1918 In the capital, Riga, an independent Latvian state was declaired, and they signed a peace treaty with Russia.

That did not last long. As Hitler was taking Poland, the Red Army walked into Riga and re-established the Soviet regime. A year later mass deportations of the population to Siberia began. As the Russian-German Axis began to crumble, the Germans who had paid 2 million dollars to get control of Lithuania, and its port Klapeda 150 Kilometers South of Riga. Then Hitler decides to take back Latvia in 1944[without payment to Stalin] and would have kept it if it weren't for the pressure put on them in the west after D-Day. In October 1944 the Russians retake Riga.

It was during this battle that the famous bridge crossing the Daugava river at Vansu Tilts was destroyed. Also, the Germans heavily bombed the city, and destroyed many ancient buildings including the most Famous, St Peters. Only 3 walls were left of the great Medieval Cathederal. The Russians defeated the Germans, and immediately began another mass deportation of the civilian political and intellectual leadership to Siberia.
For the next 50 years they ruled until Peristrokia. In 1990 the undaunted Latvians declared independence and were recognized by the west. In 1998 they held a massive celebration for the 800th anniversary of Riga. From 1967 to 1980 the Cathedral was completly restored ; including the addition of and elevator to the bell tower was installed. Above,left,you'll see several Photos from this location.

Riga is the home to many embassy buildings. Outside the US Embassy I spotted this statue/fountain in the corner built into the wall The city is very old European with a basis in the grain trade and a strong. guild-merchant tradtion found in many old medieval towns.

Almost forgot to mention that there is a very large Zoo north of the city that opened in 1901. It is located on the banks of the Large shallow bay to the north west of the city near Jurmala.
While traveling through the city it is interesting to not that many people speak English, German and Latvian. The makeup of the city is 43% Latvian, and 43% Russian with the rest Ukranians and Poles and others. The city boasts of 6 large Museums; 51 Libraries; 18 Culture Centers a ZOO and the Circus. I was in the city on three different occasions, and only scratched the surface, so give yourself time to explore.

Tartu, Estonia

We arrived in Tartu, Estonia by car on a warm summer day.
The city was buzzing with preparations for the Festival.
In the central square a stage had been erected, and though we arrived around noon on Friday some performances had already begun.
The park along the river was decorated and many rides and activities were set up for the children.
Just up the hill near the park sits the Performing arts theater. It is lovely and modern. Continuing up the roadway on the south end of the park you climb a steep slope toward Tartu College. There are signs to the College Theater and the Geological and Zoological museums.
Tartu is definitely a "college" town. It reminded me pf Princeton, but with hills and much older architecture. I even saw some old remains of a roman aqueduct that had been unearthed during recent construction. The Romans had an outpost in Lithuania in the early 600's.
There were so many quiet spots to sit and read, and down every street there seemed to be a coffee house or a small performing arts theater hidden behind small doors and not clearly marked for the public. It all seemed so quiet, peaceful and personal.
Going back down the steep hill on which the college sits I came across a very wonderful pub: The Wilde Irish Pub. In front of the pub sits a life size statue of Oscar Wide on a park bench conversing with Peter-Ernst Wilde an Estonian writer of the same period. The pub is a two story affair with a large outdoor patio restaurant in the rear of the building.
On the first floor there is a book store . I browsed a bit, and it reminded me of an old Philadelphia, PA Bookbinders. Of course, the books were all in Estonian, so I was at a disadvantage other than to look at the photos and covers.

Had an Alus [beer] and sauntered from the Wilde Irish Pub toward the central Plaza and passed Poe's - another interesting pub and a dark place dedicated to drinking and evening entertainment of local music and song.

The town square was all decked out for the Festival. One side street off the square led down to the large old church St.John's built in the 1323. Along the street locals dressed and performed and sold goods in Native costumes. in front of the British UK hotel there was a woodwind quartet of beautiful girls performing some modern tunes mixed with Vivaldi. It was a beautiful site and sound for any visitor.
In the backyard of a traditional Estonian home locals set up as blacksmiths and workers serving the master of the home.
Two young girls in Estonian traditional costumes posed for me as I entered the yard.
From there I walked back to the square and away from the Government house and Post office to the Emajogi River. I crossed the rebuilt bridge that had been commissioned in 1784 by Catherine II of Russia, and then destroyed in 1941 by the Germans in WWII.
On the SE side of the river performers had set up old traditional games and food preparation. One group was actually building an Estonian solid boat carved from the trunk of a very large tree. They worked a little; drank a lot and then sang songs. In the 3 days I was there the boat was almost finished, but I could tell it was a joyous labor of love.
Some folks exhibited the old sword, armor and shields of battle dress and performed mock fights while Troubadours played and sang.

Food! There was so many places to eat, and a lot was prepared on the spot over open fires by vendors and merchants selling all sorts of items along with the food and lots of Alus[beer].
There was a modern European riverboat that had come Friday depositing European tourists to enjoy the Festival. These boats are long slim floating hotel/restaurants that travel the extensive network of waterways throughout Europe. For a reasonable price you can board, rent a nice room, and travel from city to city in Europe. I am interested in trying the Danube trip from Germany to the Black Sea. It is a rip full of history and culture.
Early the next morning When all the singing and dancing and drinking had slowed down I walked the streets of the old town again. During this time of the year sunrise is around 4AM, and sunset is not until 11PM, and even then it does not seem to get fully dark. This gives the people an opportunity to party long into the night; which often results in parties that easily last until the sun rises again. I mean what's a night party when the dark of night is only a few hours?
Anyway at dawn I roamed the streets and found some revelers still going strong. The town was beautiful in the early dawn where the sun seems very strong and bright as it glances off the top of our Globe -Earth. Strolling down Ulikooli St. past the colorful Tartu Ulikooli U. commissioned in 1632 by Gustav II Adolf I felt a time warp pass over me, or was it that I had been a part of one of the largest and longest parties ever.
I walked to the top of the hill overlooking the town just behind the central square. From there I could see a large modern city. A few blocks from the square; the Arts Theater, and the Old Church is a large modern mirrored glass structure-HansBankas. A few blocks away is a large Casino, and across from it and one block down is a McDonalds. Yes! McDonalds of USA in downtown Tartu, Estonia.
Outside the 24 hr Drive through stood a flock of revelers trying to hold each other up while ordering burgers fries and coffee. A big black BMW SUV honked and nudged forward along the drive trying to get to the window blocked by the revelers to pick up their order at the window.

I walked from there to the old slaughter house across from the park and in front of the river. Outside there is a large statue of a Hog. On his body is etched the various cuts of meat, with numbers and a chart on the plaque at the bottom of the statue. This thing is about 8 ft tall, and made of metal.
Later as the day progressed and the park and square and surround area came to life. The old doors to the former slaughter house opened, and I went in to find it was now a very large meat market with all kinds of meat in glass cases, and hundreds of people shopping for fresh meat. I found that in the Baltic States, though people have refrigerators and freezers, They buy everything fresh each day, and keep very few "leftovers". Even a Communist would not freeze something and eat it later. It just isn't done. They are very big on Fresh and natural.
We had planned to go to St Petersburg [Leningrad, Russia] since it is only a few hours NE of Tartu. We were told that we could get a visa at the boarder or in Tartu. I checked with the Euro Tourbus company. They confirmed that I could get the visa there, but I could not buy a ticket or enter Russia for 10 days. We could not wait in Tartu that long. We will re-plan for another time.
Finally, Tartu is a city of Love. This statue of "Kissing Students" which is the center piece is also the fountain in the central city square. It is so romantic...